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A unique blend of oils originally formulated to protect dense tallow wood, cambara and merbau from extreme Australian exposures A proven translucent oil treatment for mahogany, teak and other premium exotic wood surfaces used for deck and outdoor furniture Penetrates deep into the dense resin-rich woods to accentuate natural wood depth and patina Contains a precise blend of superb-grade linseed oil for maximum penetration, long-oil alkyds for durability and pure South American tung oil for color depth and water repellency to deliver three way protection Complex translucent iron oxide pigments are added to ensure a lasting U.V.-absorbing surface rich with color and dimension After years of development the result is an advanced-technology treatment of unrivaled performance designed to protect exotic wood surfaces like never before Dries to a flat, translucent-toned finish Covers approximately 400-600 square feet on smooth surfaces and 250-350 square feet on rough surfaces depending upon porosity Complies with VOC requirements for Specialty Architectural Coatings under current regulations Natural
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| Manufacturer | - |
|---|---|
| Brand | Cabot |
| Item model number | 140.0003400.005 |
| Color | Off-White |
| Weight | - |
| Height | - |
| Depth | - |
| Product Id | 1036235 |
|---|---|
| User Reviews and Ratings | 3.8 (249 ratings) 3.8 out of 5 stars |
| UPC | 080351434006 |
| # | Title | Reviews | User Ratings | Price |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
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Cabot Australian Timber Oil Translucent Exterior Oil Finish, Natural, 1 Qt.
Reviews: 249
Ratings:
(249)
Price:
$21.65
on
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249 | (3.8) |
$21.65
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Bought Australian Timber Oil in Jarrah Brown and Semi-Solid stain in Cordovan Brown. Cleaned deck board and deck rails with recommended cleaner. Filled small holes and gaps with wood putty and sanded all deck boards and rails with 80 grit sand paper. Added Cordovan Brown to deck rails and posts and Jarrah Brown to top rail cap and deck boards. We love it!!!
I forget exactly where on the internet I came across the tip on using ATO, but thank God I did. I've used it on all of my redwood projects for last five years (including a picnic table, deck, and fencing) and it is head and shoulders above any other stain/oil I've come across. One single coat was all it took to lock in that fresh-from-the-mill on redwood.
New deck built, with high quality pine for framing, western redwood posts, cedar for the flooring. I used Australian Timber Oil, and couldn't believe how easily it went on. We all know that no two pieces of lumber are the same. So I expected some deviations on how the wood would take the stain. I am old fashion so I used a good brush, waited two weeks, buffed the treated wood with steel wool, and applied a second coat. It looks like a million bucks. I would highly recommend this product. By the way, I'm near San Antonio with lots of sun and 100 plus degree days.
I re-finished a deck that was dark grey and black from mold, dirt and neglect. I scrubbed it clean so it looked like wood again and applied Cabots Australian Timber Oil Jarrah Brown to the floor, seats and top plate on rail, I painted the rail slats to match house color. This was in 2011 yikes today I have started scrubbing the deck and will re- apply the same stain again, it probably should have been done a bit sooner but it has been 7 yrs. and this deck was not in great shape to begin with but I really think ATO saved my deck.. The photo is of it being washed and how it looked after over 7 yrs of Iowa weather. It will look new when I'm done again.
I was concerned about what product to use on my mahogany deck, newly recovered after decades of paint. The Australian Timber Oil in Natural shade worked perfectly by bringing out all the color and grain in the deck without putting any staining into the deck. I couldn't be happier.
This is a great product if properly applied. Proper application means: (a) Surface Condition; (b) Weather; (c) Application Tools; (d) Application Process. Check out my photos. This is an IPE deck that has only been stained with Australian Timber Oil ("ATO") -- no other product has been used on this deck. While this deck looks shiny, more like a film based coating than an oil based coating, it is NOT sticky ! If you want the deck to be weather protected and not sticky, while beautiful, then you need to understand the overall process. This deck was stained in 3 separate operations, each after a period of time for weathering to allow the surface to accept more stain. We anticipate that after building up the ATO, that future staining will be an annual process: One gallon of material was sufficient for one coating of the deck in the picture. A. Step 1. After we installed this deck, we let it bake in the Texas sun in June through early July (about 3 weeks). The Texas sun is brutal. If you live in Oregon, this 3 week time frame may be quite a few weeks. After this fading in the Texas sun, using a sparing application of Natural ATO with a staining brush and wiping cloth. B. Step 2, after 4 more weeks to the brutal Texas summer sun fading and aging the deck, it again got another coat of Natural ATO. This time, allowing a little more time for the ATO to soak in before wiping off. C. Step 3, after 6 weeks more weeks of Texas sun fading and oxidizing the surface, it was given a final coat. This final coat, was 50% Natural mixed with 50% Mahogany Flame. This combination brought the IPE very close to it's original color, except with a brilliance and water resistance in the surface layer. The 3rd coat was applied with a stain pad on a stick and worked into the surface after being sprayed onto the deck with a pump up deck sprayer. The edges and trim areas were done with a brush. Wiping rags were used after each small area was well worked with the wiping pad on a stick. We should note that after Step 2, the deck experienced heavy rains for almost 10 days after hurricane Harvey. Water pooled up nicely on the deck surface, showing the ATO was doing it's job. However, the water exposure and weeks of Texas sun had once again faded the surface -- an indication that the deck would now accept more stain. Here's some notes on the process: (a) Surface Condition - the wood in the deck needs to be able to uptake the product and to bond to the surface. This means weathering some due to sunlight fading and damaging the surface on a microscopic scale and the weathering due to rain. The trick is to arrest the aging with a new application of ATO, after just enough aging takes place to allow the deck to absorb the next coat of stain. (b) Weather - you need to plan for drying time after washing, without dew or rain; you need to apply it not in direct sunlight (early morning; in shade; etc). Then you need the sun to come out and "crosslink" and thus polymerize the surface of the ATO once the stain is applied and has been wiped clear of pools of ATO on the surface. (c) Application Tools - brush intended for stain (not a paint brush); wiping cloths (For coat No 3, we used a stain pad on a wooden handle, along with wiping cloths). (d) Application Process - 1. CLEANING / DRYING - We then cleaned the deck with a garden hose (not a pressure washer) and Murphy's oil soap. A deck squeegee is useful to push the excess water off. A driveway broom can be used to scrub the soapy water onto the deck. With the brutal Texas sun, 2 days of drying is sufficient. Further north, you may need another day or two. 2. APPLICATION - .here it's about applying ATO in a series of small areas, with overlapping wet edges - somewhat like painting. However, one key to avoiding a sticky mess is do not allow it to pool for long periods of time. Basically, just apply and wipe up the excess. In Step 1, wipe fairly quickly. Likewise, Step 2 is wiped with just a tad more absorption time. Step 3, we work it into the deck with the stain pad on a stick for 2-3 minutes (each time in an area of 3-4 boards x 8 feet or so), then wipe. Brush is also used in Step 3 around trim and edges. 3. ALLOWING CURING WITHOUT TRAFFIC - Let the sun cross link it good. For example, apply in the morning and then allow full sunlight to do it's thing with the deck that afternoon. The deck surface should NOT be sticky when opened for traffic. WHAT NOT TO DO: 1.DO NOT allow ATO to pool up on the surface for many minutes. 2. DO NOT try to spread ATO on the whole deck, then come back and wipe. Do small overlapping areas and apply / wipe as you go. 3. DO NOT apply in cold or inclement weather where the ATO has no chance of cross linking (polymerizing) the linseed oil. You need to give it full sunlight (while applying it in diminished light). 4. DO NOT apply slowly in full sunlight. You are cooking up a sticky mess. 5. DO NOT apply to a deck that is not fully dry. Wiping up surface water or dew with a rag the morning of the application is not sufficient. It needs serious time in the sun to fully dry. In the first application, we applied Natural ATO with a brush intended to stain. Since this new wood was still oil rich on the inside, we wiped the ATO off rather quickly with "wiping cloths."
About a month ago, I decided to replace all the deck boards on my deck because they were so weathered vs. preping and painting with a solid stain/paint. Based on various reviews, most stain solids don't hold up and peel (not sure about Cabot's DeckCorrect, maybe that's OK). Anyhow, after completing the replacement of boards, I let the pressure-treated pine sit for about a month (it was a hot month with little rain, so the wood dried nicely). At this stage, I knew I was going to stain the deck, but not sure on the product yet. After various research and reading of reviews, I decided on the Australian Timber Oil (Bought the tintable base then colored with Cedar). I know that linseed oil is great (I've used it on other outdoor wood furniture) and thought this would be a good product. I will admit I was VERY skeptical based on the reviews others placed on this site. However, I am sure I picked the right product and I have no regrets now. The finished product looks absolutely fantastic. Of course, we'll see how long it holds up. My only word of warning/caution to others, and this speaks to the bad reviews and thus Cabot's recommendations.... you MUST let the wood season/dry significantly before applying this product. I let it sit over a month in extremely dry and hot weather conditions. Otherwise, if it does not absorb into the wood, it will dry tacky and look really bad color-wise (Orange instead of cedar). See photo... water beads nicely! Good luck!
Did all the required prep and used a non-air commercial sprayer to apply. Went on smoothly and dried completely in 48 hours.Over sprayed many plants. Rinsed off what I could and only had a few leaves, no plants, that died. Sprayed steel anti-slip grid and dried in 12 hours. Sprayed the anodized aluminum rails to preserve the color and after 4 weeks they are still tacky. The wood has a slight orange tint, but the wood grain shows excellently. I asked for clear and was sold the #9400 Australian timber oil (natural). I'd purchase again and recommend to anyone, except for the anodized aluminum.
[This review was collected as part of a promotion.] Loved the way it waS absorbed. The lighter color it went on as was the prefered color. Beautiful rich color though
I have attached some photos of my deck for your review. The deck was installed last spring , it is cedar Australian timber oil was applied. After one Wisconsin winter this is the way it looks, needless to say I'm very disappointed. I'm hoping for some advice on how to correct the problem. I have been a user of Cabot products for over 50 years and I must say this is not what I've come to expect