日本
just now
10" subwoofer Built-in 300W amplifier 10" dual subwoofer with built-in amp includes ported enclosure Polypropylene cone in an acoustically matched ported MDF enclosure Built-in MOSFET-powered amplifier with aluminum heatsink Adjustable low pass crossover from 40Hz to 160Hz RCA inputs from a headunit or speaker wire inputs Dimensions: 12.6" x 16.5" x 9.8" This 300W subwoofer is suitable for enhancing music in a variety of vehicles New Condition
Amazon
walmart
| Manufacturer | - |
|---|---|
| Brand | Dual |
| Item model number | ALB10 |
| Color | Gray |
| Weight | - |
| Height | - |
| Depth | - |
| Product Id | 1898827 |
|---|---|
| User Reviews and Ratings | 4 (29 ratings) 4 out of 5 stars |
| UPC | 827204211328 |
| # | Title | Reviews | User Ratings | Price |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
Search on Amazon
Price:
Search
on
|
Search
on
|
||
| 2 |
Dual ALB10 10" Subwoofer with Ported Enclosure, 31 lbs., New
Reviews: 29
Ratings:
(29)
Price:
$143.82
on
|
29 | (4) |
$143.82
on
|
This is an excellent sub-woofer for the price. I installed it several months ago and wanted to give it a fair test before rating. I have to say this is the best $100.00 I ever spent! Paired this up with my new Pioneer DEH-X6600BT blue tooth head unit and the sound in my car improved drastically. It was very easy to install and I loved not having to worry about getting a sub and a separate amp. Sounds great and I don't even push it to 100%. I was not looking to shake the cars next to me in traffic but this unit will definitely get recognition from other cars which is why I don't push it too much.
I got this powered subwoofer as a birthday gift and I have to say I am very happy with it! I carefully installed it with a Scosche 680W 8-Gauge Wiring Kit also purchased from Walmart. http://www.walmart.com/ip/Scosche-680W-8-Gauge-Wiring-Kit-for-Single-Amps/14667122 It sits behind the drivers seat of my 2005 Nissan Frontier King Cab and it provides deep, powerful bass that has truly impressed me. I would not hesitate to recommend this unit to anyone looking to add some real bass to your vehicle in an solid, well built package that is very affordable. Well done Namsung, thank you very much!
I was looking for something to add just a bit more depth to my factory stereo. I got that and much more! Car audio technology has come a long way since my last system which was in the mid 90s. I had a box that filled an entire trunk with 2 twelves. This little thing comes darn close to that old system in performance and takes up a fraction of the space. I was skeptical to buy due to the cost being so low and did not expect much. Glad I took the chance. Far exceeded my expectations.
Great all in one option for a tight budget. 100 watt RMS is plenty of power to run this matched 10" subwoofer in a ported enclosure. More power would be required in a sealed enclosure to push the speaker to compensate for the lack of air movement. Ported enclosures are louder than sealed but tend to sound more boomy instead of tight. This 10" ported system outperforms a similar setup I had years ago from Wal-Mart that was a 12" subwoofer in a sealed box. I didn't buy this speaker to draw attention or win awards, just wanted to bring some bass back to the music in my car. Well, this certainly does just that, and more than I had expected. I can actually feel the bass hitting and the lows roll through the car. Didn't realize how much I had missed that until now. Also helps that I have a smaller 2006 Corolla. I used the Scosche 8 gauge wire kit and Scosche high input convertor with remote power line. I bought tap connectors from the auto section to get the signal from my rear speakers to the converter and also used but connectors with heat shrink ends, also in the auto section, to connect all the wires together. Very easy and clean install. I only had to run the power line from the battery to the trunk. Converter connects to rear speakers in the trunk and the converter also works as the remote power line. You have to also connect the converter to the power and ground lines to use it as a remote line for the amp. I mounted the converter on the back of the speaker and connected the power, ground and remote line from the converter directly to the amp connections sharing the power and ground lines. Amp turns on and off with the car just fine this way with one less thing to worry about. I have the cross over a little over half and the amp level a little under half and it sounds great. To get the amp level set I turned up the stereo to full listening volume and then slowly turned up the amp level until the speaker started to clip/distort, then backed up just a bit. There is now plenty of bass at any listening level. The included tie down straps work great. Only ended up using one strap and it holds just fine. Ro save as much trunk space as possible I chose to tuck the subwoofer at an angle into the drivers side corner so it lays against the wall and more out of the way than facing straight backwards. This position also aims the port rearfearing into that corner for louder bass than if the speaker and port were forward facing. As for longevity, only time will tell, but proper installation and and adjusting and are huge contributor.
Works awesome. Really added the bass I was looking for without spending an arm and a leg. Plus saved me lots of time
I used this in my 2010 crown victoria with the stock radio and a line output converter. I am impressed with the amount of sounds produced by this sub. It fills all of the gaps my stock speakers cant cover and creates a decent boom for bass. I can watch my rearview mirror vibrating back and forth every time it hits. It took me some time to get it tuned properly. I played an 80hz tone and set the low pass to the high end of 80-85ish. It sounds great and i would recommend to anyone that needs bass on a reasonable budget.
I have been installing my own car stereos for 21 years, as well as installing systems for friends. I was looking for something relatively simple and inexpensive to improve the bass in a compact pickup truck, being that it is a tiny cab in a tiny truck, I had neither the space nor the desire for a massive setup. I thought this would fit the bill. Understand what you are getting into. Automotive audio can be a bit misleading. All advertised wattage (output or input capability) is in PEAK wattage. Which means that, under ideal conditions, in a single sudden burst, the amp here is capable of producing 300W of power. The constant wattage output, measured as RMS (Root Means Squared), is 100W. (An advertised 1000W amplifier may be only capable of constant output at 750W to 800W.) Be that as it may, I intended this to be used in a small pickup truck cab, placing it behind the seat. A small space doesn't need too much power to fill it with bass, so if you're thinking this would sound fantastic in the back of your larger SUV, it's not going to be a dramatic improvement. You will need a more substantial system to fill a larger vehicle. So be forewarned, this is more suited to a smaller vehicle. I was a bit disappointed that this box was still too big to fit behind my seat, but that is my own fault for not taking measurements. Still, I found the sound to be quite adequate, and a good general-purpose subwoofer. I listen to a wide variety of music - a very wide variety - and it fills out the bottom end quite nicely. Bass is tight and clear, I didn't crank it too highly because I found there was more than enough bass to satisfy me. Connection was fairly much a breeze. All you need to do to connect this little guy up is to run a fused wire directly from the battery (put the fuse as close to the battery as possible for safety), run a wire from the power antenna lead of your stereo, and run either a good quality set of RCA cables from the subwoofer or rear outputs of your deck or use the included wiring harness to tap directly into your speaker wires if your deck doesn't have an output. You will also need to run a ground wire that connects to solid metal of the car body. Then, all you need to do is power up your stereo, the amp will come on, and you can then begin tinkering with the gain and crossover knobs to fine-tune your experience. The crossover knob is used to choose at which point the sounds will be blocked from being amplified by the subwoofer. I would have rated this 5 stars except I was disappointed with the terminal strip that the wires connected to. I used a larger wiring kit than was required, and I had to use pliers to make the connectors fit the terminal strip. A minor thing, really, but it would have been nice if the connectors were maybe the next size larger. I also would have liked to see a standard grille over the speaker as opposed to two bars. It would give me another inch or so of clearance (and one more notch of seat travel). Other than those two minor things, it certainly adds some much-needed bass to my little truck, and did so at a very reasonable price. I wasn't looking for bass to blow my windows out, but it does perform quite well!
I bought this from a friend at a good price. The actual continuous RMS wattage of this active sub is only 100W. The PEAK wattage is 300W. 100 watts is not much. Notice how they don't tell you the RMS wattage in the description? With a mere 100W, I found that it was hard to get enough output for thumping classic rock or orchestrated music compared to my previous setup. EDM and modern rock and metal that has been extremely compressed in the mastering stage of production obviously still boomed. In order to get any decent output, I have to bring the low-pass filter all the way up to 160 Hz. This gives the sub a barky sound, not the warm sound when I usually keep my low-pass around 60-80Hz on most other setups. This is an inexpensive setup, so you get what you pay for. The 10" cone is not very rigid, so it rattles quite a bit. When I put my hand on the cone, the rattling stops, so I'm thinking about taking some gaff tape and putting some kind of weight in the center of the cone to somehow increase rigidity. My previous setup for bass was an Alpine amp with a 150W RMS bridged output hooked up to a 6.5" Kicker Comp speaker with a home theater enclosure I scavenged from someplace. I actually liked my old setup better for bass. The reason I bought this Dual ALB10 was to #1 help out a friend, 2# take that Alpine amp I had and use it on my full range speakers so my other amp wouldn't be forced to output at only 2 ohms on two channels. This allowed it to run cooler at 4 ohms and reduce back-EMF, essentially making my gear last longer before breaking and giving better tone at the cost of power. All in all, this sub is not all that bad, I'm just really picky. A stronger amp would have definitely helped this sub out. Unfortunately, because it's built into the cabinet, I can't switch it out.
I was going off reviews and they were either positive or negative. It seem like a good buy considering its under $100. I was relpacing my previous setup and wanted my truck space back in my car. I figure a fully enclosed box with a amp inside would suffice. The finish quality is good and box itself is not too heavy. The only problem is it only lasted a few days under normal use. It kept blowing a fuse. I did all my research and it came down to a bad internal amp. Besides that, the sound quality was good for the days it actually worked. Do yourself a favor and pay that little extra money to buy a more reliable brand.
I bought this and installed it myself with no issues. I worked great for around three months and then without warning it just stopped. I thought maybe a cord or something came out but no everything is still hooked up. I hooked my old sub up and it works just fine. If you want a great cheap sub for a few months then this is the sub for you but if not go with something a little better.