This is an E-flite M180BLB BL180 Brushless Outrunner Motor, 3000 Kv. Features: This is a replacement E-flite BL180, 3000kV Brushless Outrunner Motor, and is intended for use with the E-flite UMX Gee Bee and UMX F-27Q Stryker airplanes. Manufacturer: E-flite Model Number: M180BLB Category 1: Other Toys Category 2: Radio Control Toys
Manufacturer | - |
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Brand | E-Flite |
Item model number | M180BLB |
Color | White |
Weight | - |
Height | - |
Depth | - |
Product Id | 881168 |
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User Reviews and Ratings | 3 (1 ratings) 3 out of 5 stars |
UPC | 605482040744 |
# | Title | Reviews | User Ratings | Price |
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E-flite BL180 Brushless Outrunner Motor 3000 Kv EFLUM180BLB Replacement Airplane Parts
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I bought this to upgrade the motor in my E-Flite UMX P-47 Thunderbolt. I also upgraded the prop to a 5030 size 2-bladed prop. WOW! What a difference! It's like adding a nitro boost to this plane. It's a huge difference. If you have this plane but want a bit (actually, a LOT) more power, this is an enormous upgrade for a relatively low price. I plan on using these in all UMX planes that come with the 2500Kv motor. My flight time was reduced a little, but not too bad. I got just under 5 minutes out of a 280 mAh 2s battery and ended up at about 3.7v per cell. With the stock motor and prop I could get closer to 6 or 7 minutes with the same battery and final voltage. It's worth it though because those 4-5 minutes are intense and you need a mental break anyway. The cells I'm using are only 30C and I haven't had any problems with puffing or overheating like the other reviewer mentioned. You may not be able to enjoy this upgrade if you have a small flying space because it turns the plane into a rocket. It seriously flies about twice as fast as stock. Aileron rolls are now super-snappy like it's a stunt plane. Huge loops are no problem whatsoever now, but it struggled with the stock motor and prop. The motor installed easy enough into this plane. It's the same size as the OEM motor, so no gluing or soldering necessary. I did have to swap two of the leads in the connector because the motor spun the wrong direction initially. It's very easy to do: Just use a small pin or screwdriver (very small screwdriver) to push down on the metal part that shows through the top of the connector. This will allow you to slide the lead out. Swap any 2 cables and you change the direction of rotation. My only complaint about the motor is that the spot where the wires come out of the motor windings was right over the screw hole that you use to attach the motor to the mount. This required a bit of pressure to bend the wires back but it still went in. In the picture, it shows these wires coming out along the side of the shaft which would have been ideal. I've read from others who have used this motor in the UMX J-3 Cub with similar success.
I bought this to upgrade the motor in my E-Flite UMX P-47 Thunderbolt. I also upgraded the prop to a 5030 size 2-bladed prop. WOW! What a difference! It's like adding a nitro boost to this plane. It's a huge difference. If you have this plane but want a bit (actually, a LOT) more power, this is an enormous upgrade for a relatively low price. I plan on using these in all UMX planes that come with the 2500Kv motor. My flight time was reduced a little, but not too bad. I got just under 5 minutes out of a 280 mAh 2s battery and ended up at about 3.7v per cell. With the stock motor and prop I could get closer to 6 or 7 minutes with the same battery and final voltage. It's worth it though because those 4-5 minutes are intense and you need a mental break anyway. The cells I'm using are only 30C and I haven't had any problems with puffing or overheating like the other reviewer mentioned. You may not be able to enjoy this upgrade if you have a small flying space because it turns the plane into a rocket. It seriously flies about twice as fast as stock. Aileron rolls are now super-snappy like it's a stunt plane. Huge loops are no problem whatsoever now, but it struggled with the stock motor and prop. The motor installed easy enough into this plane. It's the same size as the OEM motor, so no gluing or soldering necessary. I did have to swap two of the leads in the connector because the motor spun the wrong direction initially. It's very easy to do: Just use a small pin or screwdriver (very small screwdriver) to push down on the metal part that shows through the top of the connector. This will allow you to slide the lead out. Swap any 2 cables and you change the direction of rotation. My only complaint about the motor is that the spot where the wires come out of the motor windings was right over the screw hole that you use to attach the motor to the mount. This required a bit of pressure to bend the wires back but it still went in. In the picture, it shows these wires coming out along the side of the shaft which would have been ideal. I've read from others who have used this motor in the UMX J-3 Cub with similar success.